October 4, 2005 -- Is Atlantic City finally ready to stand in for Vegas? Depends which block you're one. ERIN FRANZMAN reports from the boardwalk:
WHEN lounging at Atlantic City's Nikki Beach in a white-hot design scheme, or throwing back shots from a $500 bottle of Ultimat vodka at Red Square, just remember to thank the Borgata.
The Borgata, which opened in 2003, redefined Atlantic City with its Vegas-style mix of gaming, entertainment, dining and hospitality. Now the city, a recently forlorn destination known for the bussed-in senior citizens there to play slots, is undergoing a massive revitalization that could turn A.C. into a worthy 24-hour destination.
The world's largest House of Blues and restaurateur Jeffrey Chodorow's Red Square are already here. Jay-Z and a Jason Binn magazine are on their way. Like steak? This year alone has seen the arrival of The Palm, Morton's, Ruth's Chris and Gallagher's.
Next spring, the Borgata, which serves steak at the Old Homestead, will unveil a Bobby Flay steakhouse, Wolfgang Puck and Michael Mina restaurants and two nightclubs to complement the most lavish hotel rooms in the city.
The Tropicana also has its act together. Its Havana-themed Quarter starts hopping at 7 p.m. as patrons line up for restaurants like the Sound of Philadelphia, which offers delicious cheesesteak spring rolls and live bands.
Red Square's vodka flights wash down caviar-smothered blinis. And why not store bottles in your own refrigerated vodka locker (from $1,000)? At Cuba Libre, enjoy delicate, smooth mojitos, and slow-cooked oxtail, and at Brul‚e, three-course dessert meals.
But if it's midnight, and you want to get in the car with your buddies to simulate the L.A.-to-Vegas road trip in "Swingers," you might want to give A.C. more time. Yes, things are changing, but the rest of the city needs to catch up. The nightlife is still mostly weak and many restaurants close by 10 p.m.
In the meantime, the changes are creating amusing juxtapositions.
Resorts' Nikki Beach, the type of place that makes "Sex and the City" types want to get naked, has planned pro wrestling events. This fall, Jay-Z's 40-40 Club will blast hip-hop and offer champagne-bottle service, but it's located in the Walk outlet mall, which features an Applebee's.
Over at Showboat, a Mardi Gras-themed casino resort, the House of Blues and the new House of Blues poker room are great, but the former was empty when we saw the Pixies. There's nothing else to recommend there. We were even rudely shooed out of the empty steakhouse at 7:30 p.m., told that all the tables were reserved.
Good luck competing with Vegas.
